Is The E90 BMW M3 A TOP Used Car Pick? Prices Are In The $20k Range And You Get A 400+ HP V8...

Is The E90 BMW M3 A TOP Used Car Pick? Prices Are In The $20k Range And You Get A 400+ HP V8...

Words like ‘hero’ and ‘icon’ are thrown about at will where fast cars are concerned. But no one can argue about the BMW M3’s claim to either.

It brought high-performance rear-wheel-drive cars to the mainstream. It’s an ideal stepping stone between a hot hatch and a bona fide sports car, wrapping qualities of each in a body that can slip seamlessly into traffic without warranting undue attention...

...The car you see here, though, is the only one to use eight cylinders. Sold between 2007 and 2013, the E90-series of M3 used a highly strung V8 engine and came with three different body styles and your choice of two gearboxes.

And you can now buy one for less than £20,000, cheaper than the meekest BMW 1 Series costs new. Read on to find out if you should...


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Car4life1Car4life1 - 12/4/2016 3:02:54 PM
+5 Boost
Cute but I'd take a used C 63 AMG for the sound alone any day for the same price.


MDarringerMDarringer - 12/4/2016 6:42:09 PM
0 Boost
I'm hesitant to buy ANY performance car used, unless it is a vintage ride. I'd worry that the vehicle had been "jackbutted" around. BMWs (like the other German brands) are "unCamrylike" in their durability and boy are they expensive to fix. I'd love to have a V10 M5. It's the only Bangle car I like and I think it's because it looks Japanese and Godzillalike, but car is a nightmare to own.


TomMTomM - 12/5/2016 9:50:20 AM
+1 Boost
I have been pretty lucky with most of my used Mercedes purchases - most have been reasonably reliable - and remember that as a mechanic I expect some repairs based on finding out what normally breaks - However - before I had my 450Sel 6.9 - I did have a really really bad 450se - that nearly sucked me dry. I even had the Dashboard out of that one on several occasions - it was the last S without climate control and the heat system was a nightmare. But I admit that I would shy away from Super/Turbocharged engines - they tend to have really big problems if the owner did not service them properly (And even if they DID) - and parts are sometime equal to the value of the car. This is ONE case where I would suggest getting a service contract (try your insurance company first).


valhallakeyvalhallakey - 12/4/2016 7:15:36 PM
+1 Boost
I think this would be a great option to a regular 2 or 3 series and a well cared for one with low mileage would be a good option instead of a new turbo M3. You think these are expensive to maintain, wait until you look at a used turbo model M3. I would definitely consider one if in this market.


PUGPROUDPUGPROUD - 12/4/2016 9:37:18 PM
0 Boost
As noted above its getting harder to own performance cars of all types once they get out of warranty due to high repair costs once something goes wrong. They are just so damn complex. Time someone made a light weight simple car bigger and faster than a Miata but just as reliable and inexpensive to fix.


MDarringerMDarringer - 12/5/2016 8:24:22 AM
+1 Boost
It's called a Mustang.


NSXRNSXR - 12/4/2016 10:01:40 PM
+2 Boost
I think I'll hold on to my vintage NSX for a while longer...440hp with 285k miles; still runs like a Honda!


MDarringerMDarringer - 12/5/2016 9:09:46 PM
0 Boost
I throw the #liar card. 440 hp from the Accord V6 in the NSX for 285K miles simply isn't possible.


TomMTomM - 12/5/2016 10:32:41 AM
+2 Boost
Now - to get to your "cheap" BMW M-class. It depends on how many miles it has as well as how it was driven..
First - expect that you will not be able to get aftermarket Struts - because of the low volume and likely special features of the shocks in them - and $800-$1000 is not unusual JUST FOR THE PART (Each) from the dealer. So a $3500 front strut replacement may be the first thing. You will also need expensive rubber (WHy get an M - and use lesser stuff) - expect $300-500 per tire for the real thing. Just regular maintenance items cost are eye popping. However - as noted this engine also has low end problems - and that does not include the biggest problems - electronics- now the cause of most warranty repairs. Again - these are likely to be special to these models - and the cost can be staggering.
As a mechanic - I have stuck with Mercedes largely because I have invested in all of the scanners needed to work on them myself - even though I am starting to get too old to do some things myself. I have the ability to check the computers for faults that most will never hear of. Unless you have unlimited funds though - I would suggest that there is NO SUCH THING as a cheap used German Luxury Car. What you save in the price - you will pay in service and then some. That is why I recommend anyone to lease a new one - keep it in warranty - and send it back after the lease - no used specials.


rumnycrumnyc - 12/5/2016 7:35:10 PM
+2 Boost
what a bunch of whinny dudes...

its a friggin v8 M3. meant to be used in the track. will it cost to repair it. YES! do you want a honda and camry reliability and boredom? you are in the wrong website buddy.



FaithinNickFaithinNick - 12/6/2016 6:42:10 AM
+2 Boost
There is a know issue with that car. It has uneven rod bearing wear. So if you do get one, you should swap that out. Cheap to do your self but pretty expensive to do at the shop. And this is an issue that will lead to engine failiure.


dstampferdstampfer - 12/6/2016 11:13:50 AM
+3 Boost
Great car. My daily driver is a 2011 in Carbon Black E90 (4dr). 49K miles. Bought used in 2013 with 27K on it. Have to agree with nearly everything in the article except the gas mileage. I'm getting 14-15mpg, not 18 though I have a lead foot and love to hear the engine rev. Have done nothing other than oil changes/routine maintenance. I may be due for brakes. Get about 10K miles on the rear summer rubber before replacement and about 15K on the fronts. Drive it in the winter with a square setup of 245 width Michelin Pilot Alpins on 18in rims. Few annoyances common to this generation 3 series like a faint ticking noise from the HVAC blower fan in cold temperatures and is due to a bearing problem in the fan. I've been too lazy to fix it but it's a DIY issue with either added lube or fan replacement. I haven't done anything to head off the fuel pump or main bearing issues listed.


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